This is an install of our JK Evap Canister Skid that we did on one of our shop rigs here at Barnes 4wd, it was a simple install and only took about 30 minutes from start to finish. The install that we did was on a 2012 JK 4 door, however this skid will fit all year model JKs 2 door and 4 door, the install will differ slightly on the 2007-2011 models.
Here is a list of the tools that we used:
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
13mm Combination Wrench
13mm, 15mm, 16mm, 3/8" Drive Socket
6" Long 3/8" Extension
3/8" Drive Ratchet
Here is what the factory skid looks like installed on the JK.
First we needed to identify what needed to be unhooked for the install, here is a picture with all the lines and the one electrical connector that have to be unhooked during the install. We have labeled these to help prevent confusion about which line we are talking about in the post.
We started out by disconnecting the electrical connector labeled "EC 1", it has a small tab that we had to squeeze between our finger and thumb, while pulling outward on the connector.
Now we needed to disconnect "Line A", it is a slip fit on the fitting of the evaporation canister. Its disconnection only required pulling and gently working the line side to side until it slipped off. Here is a picture of the canister with everything removed so far in the procedure.
Now we needed to disconnect "Line C", this was probably the most challenging part of the install. There is a small clip that retains the line to the fitting on the canister, we used a small screw driver to release the tabs on the backside of the clip and pulled gently outward on the other side. This is a very fragile clip so care must be taken not to break it, it also has to come straight out, if it leans one way or another it will catch and won't come out. After the clip is moved out of the way the line will pull off. The clip does not have to come completely out, the reason we took it out is so we could show how it is made. The first picture shows how far it needs to come out in order to disconnect the line, the second is a picture of "Line C" disconnected the third is to show how the clip is made.
Clip on "Line C" moved back far enough to facilitate the removal of the line.
"Line C" Disconnected.
The clip that has to be slid back, showing the tabs that have to be released (you do not have to completely remove the clip we did just to get a picture).
Now came time to unhook "Line B" it had the same style retainer clip that "Line C" had, however because of its orientation we could not get to the clip. So we used our 13mm socket and ratchet, and a 13mm wrench to unbolt the canister from the factory bracket, this allowed us to move the canister back and gain access to the retaining clip on "Line B"
The bolt that needs to be removed.
Canister slid back to allow access to the retaining clip on "Line B"
Retaining clip on "Line B" moved back far enough to remove "Line B"
Now we needed to reinstall the bolt that holds the canister in place. The retaining clip on "Line B" is much easier to put back than it is to get off, so the canister can be bolted back into place.
Now it was time to remove the factory skid and canister there were three bolts that held it in place, they were removed with a 16mm socket, and a 6" extension. After the bolts were removed we removed the skid/canister assembly from the Jeep.
Removing the bolt closest to the back of the Jeep.
Removing the 2 bolts on the other end of the factory mount closest to the front of the Jeep.
Now it was time to drop the factory skid/canister assembly into our skid plate. It dropped right in, and we were ready to bolt it all back into the Jeep.
We took the assembly and reinstalled it using the longer hardware that is provided with the skid, the new hardware uses the 15mm socket for installation. We reconnected all of the lines and the one electrical connector that we had disconnected and we were ready to hit the trail!
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